Here are the main factors that affect the printing speed of a wall printer, broken down by hardware, software, and mechanical setup—exactly what you should be discussing with fellow users or checking on your own machine.
- The Print Head (The #1 Factor)
This is the heart of the machine. Different heads have vastly different native firing frequencies.
Epson I1600 (your machine's head): Considered a mid-to-high speed head. In standard mode, it’s decent, but if you switch to "High Quality" or "Fine Art" mode, the speed drops significantly because it starts micro-stepping.
Ricoh Gen5/GEN6: Much faster than Epson in "draft" mode, but requires more maintenance.
Micro Piezo vs. Industrial heads: Industrial heads (Kyocera, Seiko) can fire droplets much faster than repurposed Epson photo heads.
Key point to check: Are you running the head at its "draft" (fast) speed or "production" speed? Many users forget they set it to "ultra-high quality" 3 months ago and never changed it back.
- Pass Variable (The Silent Killer)
In the RIP software (like Photoprint, MainTop, or the Chinese software that came with your machine), you have a setting called "Pass" (e.g., 4pass, 6pass, 8pass, 12pass).
4pass: Very fast, but you'll see graininess and banding on solid colors.
8pass: Standard speed, good quality.
12pass or 16pass: This is your "snail mode." The machine literally prints the same area 12-16 times to layer ink.
Your action: Check your print mode right now. If it's set to 12pass or higher for a mural that is 20 feet away (viewing distance), you are wasting 60% of your time for no visible benefit.
- The "Vacuum & Carriage" Mechanics
Wall printers have to deal with gravity and uneven surfaces.
Carriage Weight: A heavy carriage (multiple heads + heavy dampers) slows down acceleration. Lightweight carriages snap faster.
Cable drag chain resistance: Cheap, stiff cables physically resist the motor, slowing top speed.
Vacuum platen (magnetic or vacuum table?): On a wall printer, if the machine doesn't have a strong wall-attachment system (vacuum or magnetic), the print head will slow down automatically to avoid the machine vibrating and misaligning the dots.
- Data Transfer & Onboard Processing
USB vs. Ethernet: Old machines using USB 2.0 will stutter when sending large mural files. The printer finishes a swath, then sits idle waiting for the next chunk of data. Check your task manager – is the "idle" time high?
Motherboard CPU: Cheap machines use a slow 8-bit or 16-bit board. When you send a 500MB mural file, the board chokes. Good machines use 32-bit boards with a large cache.
- Ink & Curing Strategy
LED Lamp wattage: If your UV LED lamp (if it's a UV printer, though most wall printers are eco-solvent or water-based) or air-dry system is weak, you have to slow down to let each pass dry.
Ink density: Printing with 200% ink density takes twice as long as 100% density because the head has to fire more droplets per inch.
- The Mode You Selected on the Machine
Many Chinese wall printers have physical buttons:
"Quality" mode (slow, bidirectional but careful)
"Speed" mode (bidirectional, less concern for banding)
"Bidirectional vs. Unidirectional"
Unidirectional: Prints left-to-right, then moves down, then right-to-left. Very slow but crisp.
Bidirectional: Prints left-to-right AND right-to-left. Twice as fast. Are you accidentally in unidirectional mode?